Shopping for surrounds is fairly simple because quality and price are directly related to panel thickness. Midpriced thermal-plastic units with formed features and appearances are generally more stylish and better made. And finally, there are pressed-fiberglass kits, with thick, nearly rigid panels that are very durable.
Because all these kits do a good job of repelling water, ease-of-installation, appearance and maintenance issues are the deciding factors. The flimsier the material, the more troublesome it is to install. Thin panels often require wooden bracing until the adhesive sets and they can mirror adhesive beads and imperfections in the walls. A smooth, low-luster surface does a better job of concealing water spots and soap scum. Another important consideration is the number of pieces in the kit.
Three and five pieces are standard. Three-piece units cost a little less, but they work well only when tub walls are framed square and plumb. Five-piece units are usually a better choice because they are more forgiving of crooked walls and out-of-square corners. We opted for a five-piece, pressed-fiberglass kit at the high end of the price range. Louis, MO The first step is to remove the faucet trim and spout.
Begin by prying the index cap from the faucet handle, and then removing the handle screw Fig. Next, remove the screws from the trim plate and pry the plate from the tile Fig. To remove the tub spout, feel for a recess along its underside. If you feel an open area, expect a slip-fit spout, secured to copper pipe with an Allen screw. Loosen this screw and pull the spout straight off. The surround kits designed for attachment to studs are usually made of fiberglass or acrylic material that is quite sturdy, sometimes featuring built-in molded shelving.
Make sure to read the instructions before installing any tub or shower surround. When buying a direct-to-stud surround, make sure that you get the right size for the width of the tub or shower you have. This type of surround can't be trimmed to fit in the same way that is possible with adhesive-type surrounds.
Unless the studs are already exposed, installation starts by stripping the walls down to the studs around where the surround will sit. This is demolition work that may require a pry bar and reciprocating saw, depending on what type of wall surface is present.
Often, it is best to cut out an area of the wall slightly larger than the surround, because this makes it easier to anchor the flanges to the studs. After installation, you can then install drywall so it butts up to the surround over the nailing flanges. When removing drywall, make sure to remove all nails or screws, and check to make sure the studs lie in a flat plane. If necessary, you may need to shim out the studs if they are uneven or bowed. This ensures that the surround panels will lie flat against the walls.
Make sure the installation is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. If an adhesive or silicone sealant is also required on the wall, then be sure to follow this procedure. Install the back wall panel first. Some kits have one back panel; others have two. Position the back surround panel on the tub and level it.
Have someone help hold it in place while you check to see how it fits against the walls and the edge of the tub or shower base. Once the panel is oriented properly, drill pilot holes through the top, bottom, and side flanges where the panel meets the center of the studs, and use nails or screws to secure it to the wall.
Short roofing nails with large heads work well for this. Carefully measure and cut the openings in the side wall to accommodate the faucet, spout, and showerhead.
Then set the side walls in place so the tongue and groove mates, and secure the wall flanges to the studs using screws. Finish the job by applying water-resistant backer board above the walls.
Paint or tile those areas, and apply a bead of silicone caulk to seal the wall-to-flange gap. Install a Tub and Surround the Easy Way. Concentrate on these five preparation steps: Square up corners using filler strips and shims. All things considered, removing the tiles is often a better option. While you may find lower tiles ready to fall away from soggy wallboard, the upper tiles will be stuck tight.
You may even have to break each tile and pry off the pieces. When breaking tiles, be sure to wear a face mask and protective clothing. In some cases, it makes sense to cut the drywall and pull it all down in a few pieces, then put up new drywall or backing board to support the new surround. With a little luck, however, you'll be able to pry the tiles off, one at a time, as we did.
This will leave rough and slightly damaged wallboard, but it's nothing a little joint compound and paint can't repair. First, tape cardboard over the tub to protect it. When you've removed all the tiles, peel off any ragged edges of torn drywall and skim-coat the entire area with drywall compound.
When the compound dries, sand it lightly, paint it with a stain-killing primer and allow it to dry completely. The back corners of tub walls are often out of plumb, so it's a good idea to establish vertical reference lines above the front of the tub on each side. Before doing that, however, you'll need to install the apron-trim pieces.
Use a hacksaw to cut them to length, then peel the paper backing from the foam tape on each piece and stick the pieces to the wall.
Finally, use a 4-ft. With the front edges established, prepare to set the corner panels. It's a good idea to dry fit each panel before sticking it in place.
If your tub and walls are far from square, you may need to file a little off the bottom of one or two panels. A belt sander works well here, but don't overdo it.
After checking for fit, apply a heavy bead of the provided adhesive around the perimeter of the corner panel, about 1 in. Apply additional beads behind the soap dishes and across the center of the panel.
Then, peel the backing paper from the foam tape and carefully set the panel in place. Press the panel firmly into the corner so that it sticks on one side.
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